Elie Saab Spring Couture 2012

Today, while mistakenly seeing Elie Saab's spring/summer RTW collection instead of Couture, it came to me-the reason for the Label's success: He is the Zara of  high end fashion labels. I mean this in the best possible way.
The thing with the Lebanese designer's clothes is that they are simple and gorgeous. They are complication free, you don't look at them and think 'what is this?'- not that that's a bad thing, I mean I do find that range of clothing interesting- but with Elie Saab- his creations are immensely likable for a much wider audience than most couture creations. Classy, elegant, sexy, glamorous and pretty all at the same time. The primary aesthetic rule with his gowns is that the woman has to look good, and feel good- his fashion isn't imposing and intimidating- that's why he is such a success on the Red Carpets; his clothes work and you don't have to try very hard for them to work.With Haute Couture, sometimes you have to 'get' the piece- with him, he doesn't bother you with such details. And they are gorgeous- no two ways about that. Effortlessly glamorous.
For his Spring Couture collection, the dresses displayed some brilliant handiwork, inspired by floral patterns, with a few appearances by full skirted printed gowns as well. Slim evening gowns with intricate, crystal embellished embroidery were the most prominently featured though.
The entire collection was in beautiful pastels of mint green, peach, yellow, baby blue and ink. Its a much welcomed change after all the bright, bold colors we have become accustomed to seeing in the past few years. This was very delicate, fairy like, shimmery and sheer. The entire collection presented us with the same look, essentially the difference was just in the color, the sleeves, neckline etc, but in essence most of them were different compositions of the same gown, Not that I mind, it s a visual treat- one that is not hard to digest. That's the thing with Elie Saab, you know you'll like something or the other in his collections- like Zara. His clothes may not make the editorial crowd and the fashion insiders to get too excited, but the rest of us- we're happy with him.

I Miss the Original Valentino Woman.

I told you about the G's, how I was excited about Giambattista Valli and Givenchy for Spring Couture 2012.
They delivered fully.
I was also excited about Valentino. Being a big fan of the label and the man himself(who has retired now, and doesn't design for the label anymore) , I expect a lot from it. I have written previously about how Chiuri and Piccioli have reinvented the Valentino women. She's more demure, she's more coy- she doesn't need for her femininity to be validated and celebrated like the Valentino Woman of the past.
That's all great, but I propose that the sexiness be reinstated.
We miss it.
I miss it.
The recent couture collection was extremely girly,light, graceful and weightless. But that's not what we look for with Valentino. Yes- new designers need to bring in a new perspective, and of course to try and emulate  Valentino himself would be no good, because legends cannot be imitated- so perhaps it would be best to close that chapter when he left, and start a new one afresh. I get the sentiment, I really do. But from what I remember, Valentino has always been sexy, and known for it celebration of the female form. Its not shy, it never was- why deviate so drastically from the USP? I truly believe Valli would have been a good continuation for Valentino-because he follows the same direction. Chiuri and Piccioli could perhaps explore that gorgeous confidence that Valentino provides for his women in a different way, in a subtler or brasher way- whatever the case; but to complete change the identity of the iconic Valentino woman? It does'nt really sit well. Maybe I'm too fond of the old to accept the new.
The spring couture collection shown in Paris a few days back, runs in the same vein as the Valentino spring/summer collection shown back in October (September?). The same poeticness is there- and I appreciate it, I really do. The collection is very romantic, subdued,prairie,wood nymph like.You'd associate it with with purity and chastity. But again- This is the Valentino woman we are talking about. I really wonder what Valentino thinks of this. I'm not saying it snot a good collection- it really is, if I didn't look for Valentino in it I would probably be head over heels in love. Its beautiful, some of the work is surreal. But again it comes down to the same thing, I would not see it and say aha! Valentino! Maybe they are drastically trying to break away from its previous image, but why? Its like the age old adage- if its not broken, why fix it?  I miss those gorgeous gowns that would make every person sit up and notice the woman who walked in them. I miss the confidence those clothes gave to the woman wearing them, how she oozed out self assurance and glory. I miss the effect she had on others. The new Valentino woman is pretty much a wall flower- intimate, shy,evanescent. She does not want to be seen.

Okay, enough lamenting- tbh- the collection is a must-see, but I guess when you are looking for something, its very disappointing to not find it. I must add, the collection has been recieved very well- some reviews have said that its the duo's best collection yet, others have said it was the best collection of the entire Couture week.Only Cathy Horyn from NYT seems to want more womanliness as opposed to girliness from the label, like me.

What was I looking for? :http://challengedaesthetics.blogspot.com/2011/12/valentino-museum.html

 Gorgeous, I know- remember I never said the stuff wasn't beautiful.

Giambattista Valli Spring Couture: Now this is what I'm talking about

 The man himself! Know his face. See what a honest to good, hard working , true couturier looks like, because I don't know how many remain. Okay enough with the jokes, this is a serious place of admiration. Just look at the clothes. You know how I usually make the ones I like larger? I don't know how to do it with this one, because j'heart each on of them Seriously. The collection starts with white, plays with sheerness and gorgeous embelishement, goes on to black and white and then a full burst ofcolors. I like the detailing, the shapes, the silhouettes in almost every piece. There is soemthing special in each and every one of them . Now do you get what I meant by all the others not offering me something new? All of them looking  a little seen? With Valli, there is always a little something something in each and every look. Oh, and you know how I said Versace's mini's left be wanting more? The cut seemed a little been there,done that? Well take a look at the minidress (pic. no.13 below). Its sooooooooo sexy, and its not like its something completely new, never seen before, but the way its done-it leaves your heart beating a little faster . Haina? Its true.And the look right below the minidress (pic.no14, the full sleeved blouse, with the black and white skirt. So graceful, so poised. All of the formal evening looks, especially the last one- the maroon number with the palazzo pants. I mean, what can I say. Nothing I could say would be enough.
I'll stop now.