I was wondering a few days ago when the Haute Couture lines for spring/summer 2012 will be revealed. Apparently- sooner than I had expected. Although good timing, because most of these pieces need to be grabbed by Oscar nominees and presenters na, which is in less than a month. So yeah, speaking of the Oscars, I am totally shunning them this year because as you may already know my Leo did not get a nomination for his role in J.Edgar. WTH? I hear he was fabulously sick in it, even if the movie is a bit dry. So rude.
Whatevs, We don't need a stupid Oscar nom, or even an Oscar and to show how we don't care I will shun the show. Only see the fashion.
Anyway coming back to the Couture shows that started taking place a few days back. Wow! I've reached my saturation point. I don't where to start. I always look forward to the couture more than the RTW and other lines because- hello! This is where fashion and craftsmanship and geniousness come alive. Like really alive. Its the stuff dreams are made of. Since the Couture lines target a veryyy small, elite and increasingly middle eastern audience, this the only real chance for designers to really go all out , without thinking about affordability ( as if they ever do) or any practical considerations in the real sense of the word. Think boundless.
Atleast that's what I think.
I thought I'd do a quick overview of the collections in this post, and feature the lines from most of the collections in later posts. Sound's good? Yes? Great.
Dior has had a tough year, and its still kinda roughing it. John Galliano, the former creative director indulged in a crazy antisemitic rant that unfortunately went viral, and that's it; he was dumped by the label after years and years of great service. No matter how Galliano is perceived, nobody can change the fact that the label and the designer had a great partnership, and many were sad to see it end. Galliano's reign at the Dior is legendary. Anyway, in the meantime Bill Gaytten, Galliano's right hand man took over after the designers unfortunate ousting. His first collection last fall was thoroughly criticized for reasons I never bothered researching. This time, Gaytten upped his game. Its a good collection. It will sell. Very wearable. Drastically different from the fantastical creations made under Galliano's reign. Its the mark of anew era for the label- this collection is like an announcement that they will be taking a different direction post-Galliano.(Obv. Like they had a choice) The clothes are very late 50's, early 60's. Its like Betty Draper's closet- and mind you I think her wardrobe is amazing. Ultra feminine clothes, there is a constant play between different fabrics,volumes and transparencies. There is nothing wrong with this collection, yet I can't help but feel the absence of unique a point of view/ direction which the creative director brings to the table. The collection is an ode to the iconic Dior woman of the past, but her relevance in today's day and age needs to be established, and that is precisely what we are left longing for. They all seem to be a little seen.Not that it makes them ugly or anything, no definitely not! and some of the pieces are real winners. Especially the dreamy red concoction at the end. Maybe we just need to give Mr.Gaytten sometime to sink his teeth in his new responsibilities, and perhaps soon he will find his feet. He has the skill, now all he needs is a vision.
This show marked the end of an eight-year hiatus that the label has taken from the runway, and if anything acted as a reminder of what a great year Versace has had all due to its extremely successful collaboration with the high-street retailer H&M. Given how stupendously successful the collections was (sold out globally in two days), maybe Ms.Versace has finally gotten her groove back. Not that she ever lost it, but you now it gave her a much needed push. The show itself was very Versace in its celebration of the female form and the unabashed glitz and glamor. Sparkly minis, corseted lace gowns, and metallics all were featured prominently in the collection. My only bone of contention was with the minis. Although the gold one was beautifully laser cut and embellished, the cut itself seemed a little dated. Like it could be two seasons old and you wouldn't be able to tell. So again, like Christian Dior, I found the collection to be offering nothing new in terms of design, but if you're not particularly looking for that it was a great collection, and it would look great to wear.
Karl Lagerfeld is King .We all know that. How else can you justify his strong leadership at the label for decades? and not only that, he freelances at other places as well.The man is a machine. And he knows how to put on a show.He doesn't hold back, and most certainly not care for the expenses.He follows his vision through and through, economy be damned. The couture collection was shown in an elaborately designed set modeled to look like a life-size aircraft, complete with revolving seats, and logo-ed carpet. That's pretty cool, you must admit. Inspired by air travel and stewardesses, the collection was predominantly blue- the color of the sky. 154 shades of blue were featured in the collection. A very wearable collection, with deep pocketed skirts, pleated skirts , stiff puffed sleeves, stand away necklines and almost no waist. Me? what do I think? to be honest, I have never gotten Chanel that well- Like I don't get the big deal. Yes I like some of the pieces, would love to wear some of the gowns, but largely, its not for me.Even the Bombay-Paris collection, for the Pre-Fall- just don't get it or the big deal surrounding it, but people are positively nuts about it.I don't even bother asking why. I know it must be soemthing I'm lacking, because most people go crazy over Chanel couture, but all those day dresses with the drop waists- I couldn't pull them off, I guess cos I don't believe in them - but oh well. It happens. I can admire them, but it stops there. But,the evening gowns are a delight as always. Seriously. And ofcourse, the aircraft! Geniousity.
Okay, in the next posts I'll feature the collections for Dior, Versace and Chanel without much talking.