I told you about the G's, how I was excited about Giambattista Valli and Givenchy for Spring Couture 2012.
They delivered fully.
I was also excited about Valentino. Being a big fan of the label and the man himself(who has retired now, and doesn't design for the label anymore) , I expect a lot from it. I have written previously about how Chiuri and Piccioli have reinvented the Valentino women. She's more demure, she's more coy- she doesn't need for her femininity to be validated and celebrated like the Valentino Woman of the past.
That's all great, but I propose that the sexiness be reinstated.
We miss it.
I miss it.
The recent couture collection was extremely girly,light, graceful and weightless. But that's not what we look for with Valentino. Yes- new designers need to bring in a new perspective, and of course to try and emulate Valentino himself would be no good, because legends cannot be imitated- so perhaps it would be best to close that chapter when he left, and start a new one afresh. I get the sentiment, I really do. But from what I remember, Valentino has always been sexy, and known for it celebration of the female form. Its not shy, it never was- why deviate so drastically from the USP? I truly believe Valli would have been a good continuation for Valentino-because he follows the same direction. Chiuri and Piccioli could perhaps explore that gorgeous confidence that Valentino provides for his women in a different way, in a subtler or brasher way- whatever the case; but to complete change the identity of the iconic Valentino woman? It does'nt really sit well. Maybe I'm too fond of the old to accept the new.
The spring couture collection shown in Paris a few days back, runs in the same vein as the Valentino spring/summer collection shown back in October (September?). The same poeticness is there- and I appreciate it, I really do. The collection is very romantic, subdued,prairie,wood nymph like.You'd associate it with with purity and chastity. But again- This is the Valentino woman we are talking about. I really wonder what Valentino thinks of this. I'm not saying it snot a good collection- it really is, if I didn't look for Valentino in it I would probably be head over heels in love. Its beautiful, some of the work is surreal. But again it comes down to the same thing, I would not see it and say aha! Valentino! Maybe they are drastically trying to break away from its previous image, but why? Its like the age old adage- if its not broken, why fix it? I miss those gorgeous gowns that would make every person sit up and notice the woman who walked in them. I miss the confidence those clothes gave to the woman wearing them, how she oozed out self assurance and glory. I miss the effect she had on others. The new Valentino woman is pretty much a wall flower- intimate, shy,evanescent. She does not want to be seen.
Okay, enough lamenting- tbh- the collection is a must-see, but I guess when you are looking for something, its very disappointing to not find it. I must add, the collection has been recieved very well- some reviews have said that its the duo's best collection yet, others have said it was the best collection of the entire Couture week.Only Cathy Horyn from NYT seems to want more womanliness as opposed to girliness from the label, like me.
What was I looking for? :http://challengedaesthetics.blogspot.com/2011/12/valentino-museum.html